Mow a newly installed sod lawn approximately 10 days from the time of installation. Do not use a riding mower. Roots should be established at least ¼" in length before the first cutting. If you start to bring the sod off the ground from the suction of your mower, you have tried too soon. Stop and wait a few more days. Mow newly seeded lawns 30 days after planting or when the grass reaches 3" tall. Mow new lawns approximately 2" from the ground and always remove clippings. After initial mowing, subsequent mowing should be done before grass height is more than 3". As a rule, the ideal cutting height for most grass blends is 1½" to 2". Never cut more than 1/3 of the total height at any one time. Removal of all clippings is recommended. Mowing, fertilizing, and watering influence a lawn's water consumption growth rate, leaf surface area, and depth of rooting directly correlate to these factors. A lawn with a higher mowing height results in increased leaf surface, deeper root systems, and generally higher water requirements. The deeper root system will help the lawn endure an occasional drought. Regular low mowing height produces a dense canopy with less water use, but a shallower root system that is more easily injured during drought.

Note:  It is highly recommended to have your mower blade sharpened regularly. A sharp mower blade can improve lawn appearance dramatically.
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Edging
Lawn edging with a power edger or other edging instrument after lawn mowing will aid in aesthetic value of your lawn.

Note:  As with all power equipment proper safety considerations must be followed.
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Lawn Fertilization
Lawn fertilizer should be applied 30 days after installation and again at 60 days to provide a high quality turf. An 18-3-6 or a 24-4-8 fertilizer with a minimum of 40 percent water-soluble nitrogen is a good mixture for these initial applications. The use of fertilizers that include a slow-release nitrogen will help a lawn maintain a more uniform growth and color over a longer period of time. Quick release fertilizers (i.e., Urea, Ammonium Sulfate, and Ammonium Nitrate) can result in growth spurts with a lag period between applications. It is especially important to include a slow-release nitrogen on lawns with sandy soil or lawns on slopes. Generally, a mixture of the two types of products may yield the best results. Check the label to see what form(s) of nitrogen is included. After initial establishment, lawns should be fertilized at approximately 60-day intervals. Below are key fertilization periods and recommended fertilizer ratios.

CALENDAR PERIOD MIX OF FERTILIZER March/April: 25-10-15 with iron (moss control) May/June: 21-4-8 July/August: 21-4-8 September/October: 21-4-8 November/Early December: 25-10-15

Spread fertilizer with a broadcast-type spreader when the grass is relatively dry to avoid burning. Hose off concrete areas after an application to avoid staining. This is particularly important when applying fertilizers that include iron. Always carefully follow package directions and water lawn deeply after fertilizer applications. For more information regarding fertilizer formulations visit your local nursery.
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Lawn Weeds
Lawn weeds can be controlled by hand-pulling or with a granular herbicide. Follow the herbicide label directions carefully. For newly seeded lawns do not apply herbicides for 60 days after installation. After two months, weeds may be spot-sprayed with a herbicide. Professional Lawn Care companies offer lawn weed control applications as part of their service.
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Lawn Watering
Begin a lawn-watering program in early April or May to maintain adequate moisture in turf. Early morning watering reduces moisture related disease (red thread, rust) problems.

New Lawns - Sod
New lawns require consistent moist soil until well rooted. Lift the corner of a piece of newly installed sod after watering to check that water has penetrated to the soil. Be careful to apply water to the edges and corners of the lawn; these areas will dry more quickly.

New Lawns - Hydroseed
Ample watering is essential for good germination. A newly seeded area must be kept moist at all times for the first two weeks after planting. Under most conditions this will require watering 2 or 3 times per day. After two weeks, a deeper, but less frequent watering is needed. Water 3 times per week for approximately 15 minutes per area until your first mowing.

Established Lawns
Once a lawn is established it will require about one inch of water per week between May and September. During the hottest weeks of summer the lawn may require 1½"-2" of water per week. Encourage deeper root growth by watering less often, but deeply. A lawn that sheds water quickly will need to be watered in several shorter cycles. Lawn areas are commonly overwatered and improving water distribution and application timing can usually save significant amounts of water. The best time to water is early morning or late evening to reduce vaporization and evaporation. As a rule of thumb, watering during periods when "dew" would be expected to appear naturally will minimize fungal infections caused by water standing on the leaf surface for long periods of time. If you use an automatic irrigation system be sure to adjust the timer as the weather changes through the season.

A helpful hint to prevent excessive water run-off and over-watering is to strategically place flat containers such as pie tins throughout lawn areas during watering to measure volume of water being applied.
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Aeration/Dethatching/Overseeding
An annual core aeration performed by a power aerator one-time per year will help keep turf healthier by reducing compaction and promoting deep root growth. Power aeration machines are available at rental equipment outlets. An ideal time for aeration is between March and May. It is important to reduce excessive thatch (the organic matter that accumulates on the soil surface below the grass blade). Thatch buildup of ½" or less is helpful since it reduces evaporation and helps to protect the lawn from wear. In excess, however, thatch prevents water from reaching the soil. Also, thatch itself can become saturated, interfering with drainage. The removal of thatch encourages healthy turf since water, fertilizer, and air are allowed to reach the lawn root system. Lawn dethatching is recommended when thatch accumulates to ½" or more. Power thatchers are also available at rental equipment outlets. The time for dethatching is between March and May.

It is beneficial to overseed after a core aeration or thatching process to add lawn thickness. A quality seed mix containing perennial rye grass will provide thickness. Lawn seed should be lightly raked into the turf at a rate of 4-6 pounds per 1000 square feet of grass. A light application of peat moss will protect seed and aid in germination.
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Some Basic Lawn Problems

PROBLEM REASON Grass yellow & pale Lack of fertilizer Grass dull gray-green color Lack of water Grass grows poorly & becomes thin Soil compacted. » Remedy: Thatch & aerate Yellow/brown patches or irregular brown, dead patches You could have an insect infestation below the turf. » Remedy: For a more precise evaluation, consult a lawn care reference manual or landscape maintenance professional. Small white, circular patches or green spots outlined with brown or pink threadlike substances You could have a fungal disease infestation. » Remedy: For a more precise evaluation consult a lawn care reference manual or landscape maintenance professional.

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Cranefly Control
Cranefly larvae are the Pacific Northwest's worst turf insect problem. Untreated Cranefly can destroy a lawn within a short time period. When an area is heavily infested and grass dies a brownish paste appears over the soil where the grass is missing. Brownish gray grubs, about an inch long, may be found just below the soil surface. An application of a registered turf insecticide (Diazinon or Dursban) during unseasonably warm periods between December and March will help control lawn damage. In some cases, 2 applications may be required for complete extermination.
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Leaf Removal
Leaf drop in the fall/winter period is quite heavy in the wooded areas of Washington. Excessive leaf accumulation on lawns may cause lawn stress and thinning due to lack of sunlight, the spreading of disease, and excessive water accumulation. It is recommended to rake leaves on a 5-7 day interval during heavy leaf drop months.
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